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Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can

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cabbie
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Post by Guest Wed 29 Apr 2009, 14:46

I like my straight through Beowulf can , but it's about two foot long.I fancied a stubby, but needed a quiet one? I bought a damaged RRW can off eBay for £3.20! I chopped it into 5 pieces to see what was inside . ;
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0046-1
Piece 1 is the 3 x 8mm holes with a perforated internal cone and the support bracket.
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0035-1
piece 2 is a chamber with a 1" tube going into
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0039
piece 3 has a plate with 3 tubes through it into
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0047-1
piece 4, an empty space where the gas expands and changes direction and eventually exits via a tube in

piece5, where the 1" tube takes the gas out to atmosphere.
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0045-1
I didn't need pieces 3 and 4, so I have joined 1 and 2 back together with exhaust sealant , alloy strip and pop rivets. The tube through piece 5 is too long so I have shortened it and am going to join it to pieces 1 and 2 with alloy strip and pop rivets. When all is completed it is about 13" long. I will be skinning it with carbon fibre or stainless sheet held in place by stainless banding and rivets. I have tested it and it sounds just right. Quiet at low revs and loud at higher revs. All for about £20. More pix to follow1

i
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Post by Fringe Wed 29 Apr 2009, 17:03

Nice thread, lookin forward to see the finished article eyebrow
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Post by Guest Wed 29 Apr 2009, 17:29

Cheers mate , pickin it up after some unecessary welding tomorrow. Gotta buy some alloy strip from B&Q and I'll rivet it back together . It won't look as nice as a Micron etc, but at £20 it will do for now. You never know ,after fitting the skin it could start a fashion!!!!
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Post by Guest Fri 01 May 2009, 19:58

Did some more work on my cheapo stubby today.
first i ground off the standard bracket and rivetted a 1" wide strip of ally to two pieces, applied some exhaust sealant and then rivetted all three pieces together;
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0054-1
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0057
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0061
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0064
Couldn't resist bolting it to the bike
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0067
Then I cleaned it up even though it will all be covered by a skin and some stainless bands eventually!
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0069
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Post by Fringe Fri 01 May 2009, 22:54

KOOL
punk punk punk punk
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Post by Guest Sat 02 May 2009, 17:58

While I was at Cabbies this morning, my mate turned up on his RRV. So I took his horrible standard can home and he is "testing" my stubby for the weekend. As I thought, it's quiet at low revs and really howls at top end. Just need a skin for it now?
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Post by fastbikefinder Sun 03 May 2009, 12:20

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Post by Guest Sun 03 May 2009, 18:27

Thanks gents!!!
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Post by scotty80 Wed 06 May 2009, 21:54

hi mate the stubby was good but needed to be a bit louder for me but am very happy with the new one lol cheers may be down with john and the fighter at the weekend.
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Post by Guest Wed 06 May 2009, 23:14

Thanks George, trouble is I'm on 12 hr days until 2000hrs, so will probs need to be mon, tues or weds evening. My mate is over from Gibraltar on his SSSA/ \USD Blade on Tues eve/ Weds , if you fancy meetin up George/ John?
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Post by yammydave Thu 07 May 2009, 06:43

There is something about this can I like, but can't seem to put on finger on why.
Makes it harder to work out what exactly because I personally don't like stubby cans.
About the only one I've seen that I thought looked anything was Cabbies, and I think that was more to do with the angle he had it running at, than the can itself.
Keep coming back and having another look but never seem to work why but it must be to do with the banding and rivets!
Maybe it lends a hard, raw, brutal look.
If it was skinned over I reckon I'd hate it.
Does that make sense to anybody?
Besides, won't rivets show through if you cover it in carbon fibre?
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Post by Guest Thu 07 May 2009, 06:49

Yeah they will mate. was gonna put more rivetted straps either end, wrap some fibreglass around it as padding, or even alloy sheet , then carbon with a stainless strap either end. I may just get some mirror stainless sheet rolled around it and stainless strap or clamp it around the back? Whadya reckon. Opinions good or bad all welcome.
Oh and I'm watchin another standard can on evilbay, should be able to do it with one cut next time. Does anybody want their standard can modded?
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Post by yammydave Thu 07 May 2009, 06:58

Difficult to say Alan, more straps could balance it more or make it too busy.
If you pad it before carbon the rivets will still be a high point and I'd have thought poke through or bulge.
What do stubby can fans reckon?
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Post by Fringe Thu 07 May 2009, 09:57

IMO, the can should be welded round then grind the welds down to flat, then it can be skinned with anything.
Your way, No offence, seems a bit over complicated.
I kno finding a good welder can be a pain but, hey. You asked! rofl
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Post by Guest Thu 07 May 2009, 10:23

That's why I rivetted it. All will be hidden when I skin it, honest. Just doin it cheap. Thin ally never looks nice when welded. Cost of welding about £25!!!!
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Post by chilli Thu 07 May 2009, 10:29

im still wondering why it had to be cut in three to leave 2 joints,..could we have some measurements as to where the cuts were made and the overall finished size?... ta
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Post by Fringe Thu 07 May 2009, 10:48

LOL C'mon Chilli,
get with the program rofl
All that is in the first couple of posts............ yes, dont just look at the pictures, read the words TOO rofl .
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Post by chilli Thu 07 May 2009, 10:57

I dont have to if i dont want to!...bloody bully! rofl ..
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Post by Fringe Thu 07 May 2009, 10:58

Sorry love
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Post by Guest Fri 08 May 2009, 17:27

Bit of progress today, bought a sheet of 0.7mm mirror stainless for £12. Gonna tape some cardboard to it and put it through the rollers at work tomorrow. Probably gonna grind the rivets off, remove straps, polish off any high spots , fit stainless tube and rivet straps either end and along seam at back!whadya reckon?
Oh yeah , bought a standard black one for a 96 Tiger today on eBay. Cost £2.20. Pickin it up from Hastings on Monday . Anybody want a quiet stubby? or even a loud one?
Chilli, if you want some measurements , I will do em for ya?
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Post by chilli Fri 08 May 2009, 20:53

yeah, that would be ace mate. ta
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Post by Guest Sat 09 May 2009, 20:45

Been on 12 hour days today so didn't get chance to measure the can for ya Chilli, maybe Monday now, sorry. Did get my sheet of mirror stainless through the rollers though. Will get the can stripped and smooth the bumps out tomorrow. Monday will get seam welded on the stainless skin and straps ready for rivetting on the ends!
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Post by Fringe Mon 11 May 2009, 10:38

hyper hyper hyper hyper
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Post by Guest Mon 11 May 2009, 15:51

Just got outta garage covered in aluminium powder. ground off all rivets from stubby and removed straps. Decided that rivets are too prominent, so am rebuilding can with exhaust sealant paste, wrapping stainless skin around it and rivetting stainless straps and skin to ends of can to hold everything together! Can't find a small quantity of stainless, flat topped, blind rivets anywhere. May have to buy 250 from Screwfix and a new rivet gun! Bugger I was trying to keep the costs down!
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Post by yammydave Mon 11 May 2009, 18:45

Another thought occurred to me.
There was something about the straps with rivets that leant it a raw look.
Something I'd have thought desireable on a fighter.
How about on the next one instead of rivets use stainless allen screws or if that's too raw, button head screws?
A further advantage would be to allow alteration for increasing the baffles come MOT or track day time.
Obviously you'll have these to hand having just gutted it.

To make it more distinctive, seem as you are junking the standard method of mounting, and not using rear pegs why not also alter the angle, like Cabbie did, though in a budget vein, by cutting the tube at an angle, to have it rake up or up and out?

On a different vein; what effect has reducing the can had on the power characteristics?
Does it reduce power, increase it or affect where it comes in, tails off?
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Post by Guest Mon 11 May 2009, 19:07

Some great ideas there Dave. If nobody wants the 95 can , I will have a play. Dunno about power mate coz I am crocked at the mo with a dodgy knee.Would have thought power would be up after rejetting , coz it's less restrictive! My mate Scotty80, Helrazzer's best mate, tried it and thought it a bit quiet, but Helrazzer really liked it. Will see about altering angle as that means cutting and welding the link pipe, probably a winter project. Thought I'd start with a bling stainless skin, still in protective film at the mo with cardboard taped over that! See if that's popular and then a louder, shorter dismantleable can . If I cut at an angle I can curve or kink the can wherever? Really appreciate your ideas mate, keep em coming.
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Post by scotty80 Tue 12 May 2009, 00:11

hi mate power was up and seemed to pull stronger all the way through the revs,wasnt as quiet as the standard can but not by much but over 4000 rpm screamed and sounds good top end
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Post by yammydave Tue 12 May 2009, 07:21

I seem to remember something when I was younger that shorter exhausts improve low down power and longer top end.
Shouldn't doubt Masterblader can explain the reasons why.

The problem with loud exhausts though is because they add to the feeling of power through noise we automatically assume improvements and sometimes the opposite is true.
It might be an idea as these cheap exhausts come along to experiment a bit with the length and internal baffling.

Why not take your assembled options along with standard can fitted to the same "control" bike, to a cheap dynometer company and see what actually happens?

It's not the actual power produced that will matter, but the differences shown with each option on the same bike, in whatever condition of tune it happens to be in.
You should then be able to go away and produce the optimal budget cut down can!
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Post by Guest Fri 22 May 2009, 11:44

Finally bought some fibre glass mat to sandwich between the ally can and the stainless skin to stop rattles
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0073
. Squeezed the skin over the can and rivetted along the seam.
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0076-1
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0079-1
Made two 25mm stainless straps and rivetted them to the ends and voila.
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0085
Great at a distance , but the next one will probably be welded along the seam. Whadya think?
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0088
Stubby Exhaust from standard RRW can IMG_0090


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