Updating my RRW

ah thanks, does it use the same hole as the rad mount bracket?

The rad is hung on a spigot on the right, at the rear of that spigot is a 5mm thread which the " Z " bracket is bolted onto is where the earth contacts should be located.

Ah thanks MB I thought it must be the same hole as couldnt find any others in the area. Thanks guys

Good news today gents, have a look at this terrible video im sorry about the quality.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abYWd4K31Wg&feature=youtu.be



Yep shes running yipee!!! Cant believe it she started after 5 seconds of turning over, the choke isnt mounted and doesnt stay on so had to hold it. I couldnt run her very long as needs pushing (carring) out of the garage as will kill me when all that paint and pipe paint starts to cure with the heat. But on first look no leaks at all so im over the moon tonight and a full warming up run tomorrow Even the clocks work perfect and are very cool with the rev sweep! they have 39,000 miles on though haha

Glad its all coming together for you can't wait to see it al finished keep up the good work

Thanks Scotty

awesome nice one mate bet that put a big smile on your face after so much work will definately be a worthwhile mean machine when done

The garage is the best place for it this weather, but it's coming along nicely. Some worthwhile upgrades being added and it's looking super clean too. Did you go for that front wheel you found?

Thanks Mick, still watching the front wheel on ebay to see what it finishes for, realy need one now as the rest of the bike is getting close, having it running made me realise the end is now in sight. I was expectingn to have to do some troubling shooting because it wouldnt start etc, I was made up when it started!
Ive just gone and bought some fresh fuel and will wheel it out the garage for a full warm up later, just have to worry its all going keep sealed when its up to temp and my clutch is put back togther correctly as I cant move it with my hand (cable ist attached yet) Im hoping its just caught where its been sat for ages without oil in. Has oil in now though of course haha

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Well moved the bike outside today as best I could without a front wheel! And warmed it right up until the fan kicked in several times. Noticed a tiny drip coming from coolant drain bolt so tightened it up and then noticed I hadn’t tightened the oil drain bolt whoops, lucky I didn’t dump all my new oil all over the floor while the bike was running could have been a disaster!

Anyway apart from those minor points it all fine, so now ive removed the tank as im going to sell it as it’s too nice to paint so will buy another tatty one which can be prepped and painted. I’ve also added the cold air defector thing which sits under the frame support and keep hot air away from the airbox intake and roots cold air in. This was a bitch to fit as should have been added awhile ago but got there in the end. So now airbox is all fitted up properly.

Anyway couldnt resist a better vid


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV1MSrbIlrc&feature=youtu.be



and a pic

Not too much progress at the moment, appart from sourcing the front wheel which you all know about thanks again Clive.

Been toying with the idea of having my forks redone so they look a bit like ohlins, tops anodised gold and bottom casings powdered silver. There is a company called firefox racing which for £430 will do this for you including a set of titanium gold lower tubes. They have quoted £150 to have my standard steel chrome lowers DLC coated gold or black but that could be stretching the budget at the moment..

Anyway the anodisors quoted £25 per leg to polish and anodised the upper tubes gold which I thought was a bargain so thats going to be happening (forks are CBR1000RR ones just to remind you all) so now I need to strip the forks... Ive asked MasterBlade and he could be up for the challenge of stripping and reassembling afterwards

Well started striping one fork today, downloaded the cbr1000 manual and decided the job didnt look too bad so would attempted it. Well things went bad from the off :( loosed the big fork top nut as per the manual no problem, then you have to hold the threaded section with a 12mm spanner (has a small cut out to locate the spanner) and with another 19mm spanner loosen the retaining nut, well started undoing and the 12mm spanner sliped and damage the thread slightly.

Once the thread is damaged the outter nut catches on the thread and the hole assembly just spins and you cant hold on to anything. So the end result now is the forks are stipped down but the preload adjuster area is completly chewed up and mangled as had to hold it with a pliers. :( Cant keep it like that looks terrible so looks like I need a whole new internal cartridge just to replace the tiny preload area. Thankfully there is one on ebay at the moment for £10 with 4 days to run so hope I can get that.. Bloody nightmare! Looked at the honda dealer and they are £430!! WTF

Anyway have the other one to start /ruin tomorrow wish me luck

Well forks are stripped at last, managed to get the second one appart without chewing the hell out of it so that was a result at least.. Here are the upper tubes ready for polishing and anodising.




I also powdercoated the fork lowers silver as not keen on the bronze, may even look like a well known Swedish fork manufacturer when im done haha

Did you do the powdercoating yourself ? looks really good

yes I did Wes, have one of those DIY machines. Cant recommend it enough tbh its as good as anything ive had done professionally. The only limit is the size of the oven im using I did do my 16" blade front wheel black and came out better than the rear which wouldnt fit in the oven as was done professionally.

spot on mate, fair play, looks very professional

thanks just did a mock up with my brembo rep calipers attached to the castings with the disk in place does look very nice

Thats starting to look like one nice scoot.

wish I had half your spannering skills!

Thanks Tone, theres no great spannering skills here though I can assure you. If I had posted the mess ive made to my preload adjuster you wouldnt be saying that haha

That may well the case but youve made more progress in the last mont than I have in the last year!!!

Keep it going its looking great.

went to the anodisers today to drop off my upper tubes and ask him if they could be polished and anodised gold please. He said what sort of gold would I like.. I said um gold please hehe. So in the end I removed my rear ohlins shock and said match it to that please sir


I also powdercoated the other casting today and took a mock up pic with the calipers, quite pleased with how this is looking

Looking good LC, clocks look good i see you have fitted them to the original headstock mount with that great new mount so thinking what you doin about headlights or are you keeping the fairing and oe lights?. Seen some clocks for sale the same and thought about making a similar bracket to yours and mounting it to the underside of the top yoke so they will turn with front end.( i don't have the original headstock bracket) would have to allow for slack in the loom so it didn't tighten on full lock, still struggling with a headlight though. has the wheel turned up yet?

Thanks Clive, it going to be fully faired still so will be keeping everything stock up front. But those 600 clocks come with about 6 - 8 inchs of wiring so you have plenty of slack if you want to mount them on the bars somewhere. What year is your blade as needs to be a 98 - 99 otherwise you need a new temp senser and an electronic speedo drive if its still on a cable. Cant remember all the details for the older bikes but can provide you a link to another forum with all the answers But dont worry about cable they come with plenty

Thanks mate, mine's a 98 RRW same as yours

easy job then Clive i love mine realy worth doing mate

OK so had the call this morning fork tubes are done, so went to pick them up and im very happy, that look awsome!! Heres a mock up pic, ignore the fithy windows and cats haha

Lookin Good, keep up the good work...

thanks Prunty, im toying with the idea of having the stanchions titanium nitrate coated which is the gold coating on the ohlins forks, its the super slippy stuff to aid fork movment and then they would look super slick! Ive had quotes for £150 for both so im deciding if the budget can stretch to that.... mmmmmm gold..


Some info here :

http://www.reactivesuspension.com/services.php

Heres the wheel thanks again Clive it was a great find buddy still owe you that beer
didnt come with rotors had those already

That looks just the job, a great looking front end coming together. Are the wheels staying black?