fitting crash bungs
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fitting crash bungs
got a set of crash bungs that im gonna fit at the weekend, thing is i want to know about drilling the fairing, i have a 25mm tank cutter for cutting the final hole, but is it best to tape the fairing where im going to drill and cut out?
chilli- Admin
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Age : 65
Location : Glasgow
My bike(s) : yep!
Registration date : 2007-07-21
Re: fitting crash bungs
Found this on the old forum if it helps chilli....
http://firebladeriders.proboards43.com/index.cgi?board=oddsandends&action=display&thread=1134405358
http://firebladeriders.proboards43.com/index.cgi?board=oddsandends&action=display&thread=1134405358
Firebladeradmin- Website/Forum Owner
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Registration date : 2007-07-19
Re: fitting crash bungs
If you run the drill fast and press gently it will cut clean without tape, cut from the painted side through to the inside!
I did a how-to on this on my home forum, but the basics are align very carefully, drill a tiny hole and refit the panel to check alignment before cutting.
If you cut 35mm rather than 25mm it gives you a bit more room for error and for the bung to bend without cracking your panel.
I did a how-to on this on my home forum, but the basics are align very carefully, drill a tiny hole and refit the panel to check alignment before cutting.
If you cut 35mm rather than 25mm it gives you a bit more room for error and for the bung to bend without cracking your panel.
Re: fitting crash bungs
Hope this is some use....
Please note: When I say "refit the panel" I do not mean just hold it in place. You need to refasten at least a few of the fasteners, if not all of them, to ensure the panel is sitting exactly where it normally sits.
You start with nice, fresh, unsullied panels.
First remove the panel in question and slacken off the engine bolt you're going to be replacing. Get some Blutack nice and warm and squeeze it onto the inside of the panel, refit the panel and draw the bolt out into the Blutack to make an impression.
Try to do this as accurately as possible. (The R&G instructions say to paint the end of the bolt, but basically that's crap!).
Remove the panel and use the mark to carefully centre the finest drill bit you've got. Seriously - the narrowest bit you have. Drill throught the Blutack (ignoring the fact it's gonna grab your drill, you can peel it off easily afterwards).
Refit the panel and push the drill bit through the hole you've made to double check that it centres accurately on the bolt head. Look from a couple of angles, not just one.
Now open up the hole with a larger bit (check that it is still smaller than the bit that is used on the hole saw), preferably with the panel in place. If necessary you can "travel" the drill slightly, but try to avoid it.
Remove the panel and using the pilot hole to guide you drill in from the outside with a 25mm hole saw. (If you want to leave a little slack around the crash bung you can use a 30mm saw, but where the bung isn't flush to the panel you'll see the larger hole). Run the drill at full speed and use very little pressure. Let the saw wear the plastic away gently, rather than trying to cut through it quickly.
Use a fine file to gently smooth off the edge legt by the hole saw. You can also use some clear nail polish or varnish to seal the edge of the paint if you want to.
Now refit the panel and the R&G. Double check the instructions - usually the protectors are sided, with different length spacers. If the bolt is running into the alloy head make sure you use a torque spanner. If it's an old steel framer where you're running the bolt into a nut supplied by R&G just horse it up good and tight!
The finished article:
Please note: When I say "refit the panel" I do not mean just hold it in place. You need to refasten at least a few of the fasteners, if not all of them, to ensure the panel is sitting exactly where it normally sits.
You start with nice, fresh, unsullied panels.
First remove the panel in question and slacken off the engine bolt you're going to be replacing. Get some Blutack nice and warm and squeeze it onto the inside of the panel, refit the panel and draw the bolt out into the Blutack to make an impression.
Try to do this as accurately as possible. (The R&G instructions say to paint the end of the bolt, but basically that's crap!).
Remove the panel and use the mark to carefully centre the finest drill bit you've got. Seriously - the narrowest bit you have. Drill throught the Blutack (ignoring the fact it's gonna grab your drill, you can peel it off easily afterwards).
Refit the panel and push the drill bit through the hole you've made to double check that it centres accurately on the bolt head. Look from a couple of angles, not just one.
Now open up the hole with a larger bit (check that it is still smaller than the bit that is used on the hole saw), preferably with the panel in place. If necessary you can "travel" the drill slightly, but try to avoid it.
Remove the panel and using the pilot hole to guide you drill in from the outside with a 25mm hole saw. (If you want to leave a little slack around the crash bung you can use a 30mm saw, but where the bung isn't flush to the panel you'll see the larger hole). Run the drill at full speed and use very little pressure. Let the saw wear the plastic away gently, rather than trying to cut through it quickly.
Use a fine file to gently smooth off the edge legt by the hole saw. You can also use some clear nail polish or varnish to seal the edge of the paint if you want to.
Now refit the panel and the R&G. Double check the instructions - usually the protectors are sided, with different length spacers. If the bolt is running into the alloy head make sure you use a torque spanner. If it's an old steel framer where you're running the bolt into a nut supplied by R&G just horse it up good and tight!
The finished article:
Re: fitting crash bungs
Thanks very much for your detailed "how to" it contained all the information i wanted to know,, would you suggest that i suport the pannel with wood when drilling the final hole?
chilli- Admin
- Number of posts : 3876
Age : 65
Location : Glasgow
My bike(s) : yep!
Registration date : 2007-07-21
Re: fitting crash bungs
that is a cracking guide, may i suggest making it a sticky in idiots guides
BladeBum-Russ- MotoGP Legend
- Number of posts : 1058
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My bike(s) : 99blade
Registration date : 2007-07-24
Re: fitting crash bungs
Up to you mate, I didn't support on anything but grass. Just be sure that whatever you lay it on you're not going to damage the edges. You shouldn't be using enough pressure to deform the panel at all, let the cutter take itself through.chilli wrote:Thanks very much for your detailed "how to" it contained all the information i wanted to know,, would you suggest that i suport the pannel with wood when drilling the final hole?
Awww shucks.BladeBum-Russ wrote:that is a cracking guide, may i suggest making it a sticky in idiots guides
Re: fitting crash bungs
megawatt wrote:How did you get on with the crash bungs mate? It's a lot easier with a Fighter!
Havent got round to fitting them yet mate, ive been busy putting in a path from the bikeshed to the drive..... i'll get round to it in a day or 2 ...maybe...hopefully...
chilli- Admin
- Number of posts : 3876
Age : 65
Location : Glasgow
My bike(s) : yep!
Registration date : 2007-07-21
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